By Michael Martin
Jump To Section
- Star Trek: Picard
- Makeup Artist James MacKinnon Comes Aboard
- Designing Aliens
- Bringing the Romulans to Life
- Romulans Have Green Blood
- Return of the Borg
- The End of the Borg
- Making Mr. Vup
- More Alien Makeups
- An Old Friend Returns
- New Makeup Technologies for Picard
- The Importance of an Organized Set
- Looking Back
Star Trek: Picard
When Gene Rodenberry’s Star Trek series premiered back in 1966, no one could have predicted that it would become the worldwide sensation that it is today. What started out as a ‘five-year mission’ would stretch into a total of 13 movies, 6 series, merchandise, conventions, and even an animated series. Along the way, new characters would be introduced, including the Next Generation’s Captain Jean-Luc Picard (played by Patrick Stewart), a worthy successor to the original’s Captain Kirk.
(Patrick Stewart returns as Captain Jean-Luc Picard, retired from Starfleet and mourning an old friend. Image courtesy CBS All Access.)
The newest entry into the Star Trek universe is Star Trek: Picard, streaming on CBS All Access. Again starring Patrick Stewart as the eponymous captain, Star Trek: Picard takes place twenty years after the events of the feature film Star Trek: Nemesis. The series borrows elements from both that film and the 2009 re-imaged Star Trek film.
A staple of the Star Trek universe has always been the alien races that the crew of the Enterprise and other ships of the Federation meet in their voyages, oftentimes making us realize that being human is only skin deep. Vulcans, Klingons, Romulans, and even the Gorn have inhabited the Star Trek world.
Five-time Emmy award-winning makeup artist James MacKinnon knows a thing or two about the aliens of Star Trek, with credits that span from the Fast and Furious movies, to Marvel movies like Guardians of the Galaxy and Thor. James spoke with SWSCA about his long history with Star Trek and the advancements made in makeup technology over the course of his almost-thirty-year career.
(Image of James MacKinnon courtesy IMATS/Makeup Artist Magazine)
Makeup Artist James MacKinnon Comes Aboard
James MacKinnon has worked with the Star Trek franchise since 1996. Picard represents his seventh Trek television series or movie. He says, “…it's part of my DNA now.” James’s first taste of Trek came from working with famed Oscar and Emmy-award winning makeup artist Michael Westmore on the Star Trek series Deep Space Nine and Voyager. James would later work on the J.J. Abrams show Alias where he would meet Picard Executive Producers Alex Kurtzman and Heather Kadin, who were then writers on the spy show. When James discovered that the pair were working on Star Trek: Discovery, he immediately asked to come aboard. That connection would lead eventually to MacKinnon working on Picard.
Designing Aliens
(Picard Creature Designer Neville Page and Prosthetic Designer Vincent Van Dyke. Images courtesy CBS All Access.)
Lead creature designer Neville Page would be responsible for designing new aliens for Picard, along with updating and transforming familiar favorites. The prosthetics for the show would be produced by prosthetic designer Vincent Van Dyke of Vincent Van Dyke Effects.
Bringing the Romulans to Life
The Romulan race plays a large part in the Picard storyline. They run throughout the series. And the classic Romulan look has evolved. Neville Page would design the makeups with a nod to their shared Vulcan DNA, creating two different looks for the Romulans.
(Just a few of the many Romulan makeups that James MacKinnon and crew would create for Picard. Images courtesy CBS All Access.)
The first design would have a full forehead, nose bridge, and pointed ears created with silicone appliances. The second would still have a little bit of a brow ridge but appear more human, including a full head of hair. Ears would get an upgrade, now sporting small ridges or bumps.
(James MacKinnon transforms actress Heather Wynters, one of the many Romulan makeups created for Picard. Images courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
(Transforming Jamie McShane into Zhaban, Picard's Romulan butler. Images courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
For the more human look, the actor’s eyebrows would be covered with silicone brow blockers or Pros-Aide transfer blockers, and then new lace eyebrows would be laid on, giving them that sharp Romulan angle. James reveals that using the blenders could take just as long (or even longer) to apply than the forehead appliances because of how detail-oriented the process is. For example, when making up Ethan Peck as young Spock on the Star Trek: Discovery series, it could take up to two hours to get him into and out of the makeup.
(Key Prosthetic Makeup Artist Richard Redlefsen works on the Romulan character Laris, played by Orla Brady. Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
James says that he loves working with silicone and that most of the prosthetics on the show were made of the material. He says with foam it can be difficult to hide the blending edge, but with silicone, “…you just tap some acetone on and it disappears.” Another benefit of working with silicone appliances is their inherent translucency. James explains that when working with foam appliances, makeup artists have to paint the translucent effect on top of the opaque foam, many times using a thick rubber mask greasepaint. Since silicone is already very translucent, it can be pre-tinted and then lightly painted with an alcohol-based paint palette.
(A look inside Vincent Van Dyke Effects studio where all of Picard's prosthetic appliances were created. Image courtesy Vincent Van Dyke Effects.)
Romulans Have Green Blood
(Actor Harry Treadaway made up as Narek with a Pros-Aide transfer wound and green Romulan blood. Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
James relates how one time a simple scar had been applied to the Romulan character Narek played by Harry Treadaway. The scar was a generic transfer and some blood had been put on it before pictures were sent to the producers for approval. That’s when James realized that the makeup test had used red blood! But as every Star Trek fan knows, Vulcans and Romulans have green blood! MacKinnon uses this as an example of how little things can slip by. But fortunately, “…I caught that just at the last second.”
Return of the Borg
(The faces of the xBs in Picard. Images courtesy CBS All Access.)
The Borg characters in Picard look different than those in earlier Star Trek installments. Now called xBs (ex-Borg), many have had their Borg elements removed, leaving them covered in scar tissue with remnants of the pieces of Borg tech still embedded in them. Talking about the new appearance of the Borg, James says that they wanted a more humanized look, “…we didn't want them to look too Frankenstein-y.” For Borg characters that were missing limbs, amputee actors were cast and then fit with prosthetic xB-style stumps.
(The sculpture for Jonathan Del Arco's xB prosthetic with embedded 3D printed Borg tech and the actor made up for the character Hugh. Images courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
(The initial sculpture, prosthetic sculpture, the silicone appliance, and the finished makeup for one of the xB characters portrayed by Marti Matulis. Images courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
To achieve this new look, silicone appliances were created with 3D printed tech pieces glued into them. The Borg tech pieces were initially painted with shiny automotive paint to create a glowing chrome look, and then the prosthetic appliances were pre-painted around the mechanical Borg pieces.
(Pre-painted silicone appliances and the completed xB makeup on amputee actor Zachary James Rukavina. Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
(360 degree view of the Borg xB makeup created for Zachary James Rukavina by James MacKinnon and his team. Images courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
(Makeup artist Richard Redlefsen touches up an xB makeup on set. Image courtesy CBS All Access.)
One of the tricks James and his team used when painting the ex-Borgs would be to apply Vaseline over the 3D printed pieces. Once finished with the splattering process, they would remove the Vaseline with a Q-tip revealing the metallic surface of the tech piece.
(Borg tech pieces, unpainted (left) and painted (right). Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
Picard makeup artists would create a wide range of xBs using the pre-made appliances and James would also get to play a Borg Drone, an experience he says was "a lifetime dream.”
(Star Trek: Picard's Makeup Department Head James MacKinnon made up for his cameo as "Mackborg" a Borg Drone, application by Richard Redlefsen and Alexei Dmitriew. Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
(James MacKinnon in his Borg Drone makeup applies an xB makeup to Jonathan Del Arco. Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
The End of the Borg
(Jeri Ryan returns as Seven of Nine sporting a Borg tech appliance around her eye, beauty makeup by Silvi Knight and prosthetics by James MacKinnon. Image courtesy CBS All Access.)
In one scene, returning character Seven of Nine, played by actress Jeri Ryan, is forced to mercy kill one of the Borg. As part of the Borg’s death, its eye would be removed by a needle-like device. James says, “It's a cool combination between visual effects and makeup.” Once the eye is removed, the aftermath is represented by an appliance with a hollow socket. Of the gory eye socket makeup, James reveals, besides fake blood, “I always add a little banana in there, too.”
(Actor Casey King as Icheb in prosthetics for his gory death scene in Star Trek: Picard. Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
Banana? You bet! James says, “…a few little chunks of banana with a little bit of blood…” helps to create depth. He adds that bananas are also, “…great for brains…” and more, such as the fruit being used in wounds to represent fatty tissue. MacKinnon admits he used three bananas on Season One of Picard.
Making Mr. Vup
(Actor Dominic Burgess as Mr. Vup. Image courtesy CBS All Access.)
A new character in the Star Trek universe appearing in Picard is the scaled reptilian-like Beta Annari alien called Mr. Vup. Designed by Neville Page and performed by Dominic Burgess, the makeup for Mr. Vup consisted of multi-piece foam appliances for the head and face. James says that it can be hard for performers to ‘act’ through thick layers of foam or silicone, so some areas are cast thinner. In this case, the chin and lip areas were cast as separate appliances to allow for more movement. James adds that Dominic’s performance was terrific, that he “…did an amazing, amazing job.”
(Images documenting the creation of Mr. Vup from concept to finished foam and silicone pieces at Vincent Van Dyke Effects. Images courtesy CBS All Access.)
In addition to the face/head makeup, alligator-like forearms and hands were created out of silicone, and then dentures with sharp teeth and contact lenses were added.
(Key Makeup Artist Alexei Dmitriew adds paint detail to actor Dominic Burgess as Mr. Vup. Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
More Alien Makeups
Along with Mr. Vup, the Picard artists would also be responsible for creating a host of other aliens.
(Daniele Tirinnanzi works on an alien sculpt. Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
(More makeups created for Picard. Images courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
An Old Friend Returns
Data, the synthetic lifeform portrayed since the beginning of Star Trek: Next Generation by Brent Spiner, as seemingly more human than many of the human characters on the series, would make a return in Picard.
(Actor Brent Spiner plays both Dr. Altan Inigo Soong and Data in Picard. Images courtesy CBS All Access.)
James actually had previous experience making up Spiner as Data. He relates that when working on the Next Generation film, First Contact, Michael Westmore (longtime makeup designer and supervisor for the Trek universe) needed someone to work with him on Data’s makeup. And…drumroll…James was lucky enough to be picked! James says it was, “…super, super awesome!”
For First Contact, James would help apply a piece representing Data’s interior parts while Michael Westmore was applying the rest of the android makeup. James was able to watch the master at work, and now, more than twenty years later, he says, “…I get the opportunity to bring that beloved character back.”
So what did James do when given that chance? He called up Michael Westmore and asked him what he’d done! Michael was kind enough to send James a list of the makeup products he had used on Data originally. Many of the makeups on the list were no longer available so James would end up creating his own palette. He started with Aquacolor pancake for the base color. The pancake was originally used on Data’s hands by Westmore and James would now use it as the base for Data’s face. James would then seal the pancake with sealer, producing a muted gold color that would stay on all day. He says, “…it went on super, super smooth. It was perfect, no problems.” James would then take two different colors from Skin Illustrator's Alchemy palette and mix them to mimic the gold powder used on the original Data makeup by Westmore. Spiner’s hands would then be made up in a similar manner and contacts that matched the older lens colors were inserted.
When Brent Spiner played the Data character in the original Star Trek: Next Generation, his hair was already dark. At the time, a hairline was drawn on with little plug-type hairs to represent his ‘synthetic lifeform’ hair. For Picard, a wig was made to represent that old pattern of a ‘punched’ hairline to match the original look.
(Data relaxes with a glass of wine in Picard. Image courtesy CBS All Access.)
New Makeup Technologies for Picard
When James originally began working in the Star Trek universe back in 1996, the then-state-of-the-art in makeup effects included foam latex appliances and rubber mask grease paint/PAX/rubber cement paint. Since then, the art form has jumped light years. From silicone appliances to 3D printed parts to alcohol-based paints and transfers, James says that there has been a great progression in technology.
Besides makeup effects, things have advanced in the digital realm, as well. However, James says he doesn’t like to depend on using digital effects to fix a makeup problem. Sometimes lace piece will pop up, he says, “You can't help that.” But that, “I'd rather spend an extra five seconds in the chair, make sure that lip is done, that blending edge is done...” instead of trying to fix it all day long.
James does admit that, with certain time constraints, it is quicker to decide in production meetings that an effect should be accomplished digitally. Or, they will agree to build the practical effect up to a certain point and then have it continue with CG. He says that combination, “…is awesome.”
One of the things James likes to impress upon his crew is that because Picard is shot in 4K, “There is no such thing as a background makeup artist.” Meaning, every makeup is going to get a closeup.
The Importance of an Organized Set
James MacKinnon likes to run an extremely organized set. With 30 – 50 makeup artists working on average every day on Picard, he doesn’t want artists to be searching for their pieces or not knowing what they’re working on. A lot of pre-planning takes place so that when Vincent Van Dyke Effects delivers a box for each character, the pieces are ready to apply, along with notes on the placement and coloring for the actor. He says, “It's a lot of pre-planning,” but that it pays off. “The more time that they get to shoot, the more screen time people's makeups are on.” Also, James would like to sincerely thank his Picard crew. “I can't do what I do without them…I'm only as good as my help and, thank God, they're better than me.” In the end, James says, “I care about my art. I care about the show.”
(The Picard makeup crew at work. Image courtesy CBS All Access.)
Looking Back
Looking back at his time on season one of Picard, James MacKinnon says it was cool to, “…recreate Michael Westmore's work.” He continues, “As a makeup artist, 25 years later, to be able to get to do those makeups again…I got a second chance to do them with new technology and new cool stuff.” Fans of the series will be glad to know that Picard has been renewed for two more seasons!
Follow James MacKinnon on Instagram @jrmackinnon to see additional Star Trek: Picard makeups and more of his work!
(James MacKinnon, in Borg makeup, with Jonathan Del Arco as Hugh. Image courtesy James MacKinnon/CBS All Access.)
